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Best time to plant mature trees

best time to plant mature trees Early spring is the best time to plant trees in Colorado. What is the best time of year to plant a tree in Colorado? A. . “When is the best time to plant?” but most perennial plants and trees. If you wonder how much time nut trees need to mature before you. I am often asked when to plant trees. When is the best time to plant trees purchased from the nursery? This question has both a long and a short.

best time to plant mature trees What is the best time of year to plant a tree in Colorado.

When is the best time to prune trees and shrubs?

By and large, newly-planted plants are not going to perish from diseases or pests in their first year. The main cause of their death will be lack of water.

If you do plant in spring or early summer you need to have a couple of things in mind. Do you have a tap and hose nearby? Will you be going away for a prolonged spell when there will be nobody to water? Even in Ireland it doesn't rain all the time! Have you planted properly and in a way that will make life easier for the plants? This would include watering properly after planting and top-dressing the soil with mulch such as garden compost, bark mulch or well-rotted manure. The addition of this layer on top of the soil does all sorts of good things: it stops the sun beating down on the soil and the moisture from evaporating; it rots down slowly and improves the soil structure, making in better and retaining moisture; it maintains the soil at a steadier temperature, ie cooler in summer and warmer in winter; and it keeps down weeds.

Root-balled plants are grown outdoors in the ground. They are dug up with a 'ball' of soil around the roots and are then wrapped in hessian. Larger specimens also have their roots held together in a wire cage. These plants - normally larger specimen trees and shrubs - can only be dug in the dormant season, although they can be planted all the way into the summer. However, it's best if they are planted as soon after digging as possible, as this will allow them to settle in without watering for several months.

Below is a timetable of what can be planted when in the Irish climate:

  • Bare root trees and shrubs: These plants should be planted during the 'dormant season' which is between approximately November to March. This is an inexpansive and convenient way to plant woody plants and is ideally suited to hedges and forestry. Because these plants are sometimes in short supply, it's generally ideal to order and plant them before the new year rather than after it.

Think of your planting time as a range of favorable conditions instead of an exact time. For example, you can plant new plants and trees…

  1. When the ground is not frozen.
  2. When daytime temperatures are above freezing (32ºF) and below 90ºF.
  3. When extreme weather (blizzard, hail, torrential rain, etc.) is not in the forecast.

Annual seeds and vegetable plants (that complete their life cycle – from planting to harvest – in one year) need a planting date that is more specific. It depends on what you’re sprouting and growing, because you have to allow time for things to develop before harvest. However, with perennial plants and trees that may take a year or more to bear, the best time to plant can be less exact.

As long as you choose a location in the best interest of what you’re planting, and mind the unfavorable conditions listed above, you can plant when you feel most comfortable planting.

To do it successfully, you must take steps to improve the likelihood of survival.

Learn the best way to move plants, as well as the best time to do so.

How to Transplant Trees and Shrubs: Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Keep in mind the maxim, "Location, location, location." Prior to transplanting, determine whether the tree or shrub likes sun or shade, and what its spacing and watering requirements are. For instance, do not locate a plant that craves water next to one that prefers dry conditions: Their needs will be incompatible. And to be safe, always make use of the Call Before You Dig number.
  2. Dig the new hole before you dig up the tree or shrub. Once you dig up the plant, the longer its roots go without a home, the lower your chances for successful transplanting will be.
  3. Measure or estimate the width and depth of the root-ball (by doing a bit of exploratory digging around the plant). The width of the new hole should be twice that of the root-ball. The depth should be kept a bit shallower, to avoid puddling and consequent rotting (especially if your soil has a lot of clay in it).
  1. When you reach the bottom of the new hole, resist the temptation to break up the soil beneath.
After the plug has been lowered into place the blades are withdrawn.

When planning the job, keep in mind that a truck-mounted tree spade requires room to maneuver. Steep grades, overhead wires, the proximity of buildings and other location features can affect the feasibility of the transplant.

Note, too, that the combined weight of the truck and tree can crack sidewalks and make a mess of wet lawns or new sod. In new construction, it's best to plant trees before landscaping. Also, be sure to have your operator make the appropriate contact to see if buried utilities are present.

Ensuring success

The 10:1 ratio of spade diameter to tree diameter is less a mechanical limitation than a root-mass requirement. A tree that is uprooted must retain enough undisturbed root mass to replace moisture lost through the leaf structure by transpiration.

Because the size of the tree influences the machine that's used, make your requirements clear before you hire someone to do the work. Standard equipment ranges from 20-in.-dia. nursery machines to 92-in. behemoths. The diameter refers to the width of the soil plug as measured at the surface. This measurement divided by 10 defines the size of tree that can be moved successfully. A 20-in. spade, for example, is pretty much limited to a tree with a 2-in.-dia. trunk as measured 12 in. from the ground.

At the other extreme, a 92-in. spade, mounted on a semitrailer, can transplant a 30-ft.-tall tree. The very size of these rigs is limiting, however. Job-site maneuverability can be a problem, and with a 92-in. bite the soil plug alone can weigh 12,000 to 14,000 pounds. Greater equipment costs, plus higher prices for really big trees, substantially limit the customer base.

To improve survivability in spring and summer, you might use a larger machine to transplant smaller trees. There are also commercial products that can be sprayed on leaves to temporarily reduce transpiration. And finally, tree species vary in transplant hardiness. A spruce, for example, transplants well, so you might get away with planting a 6-in.-dia. spruce with a 50-in. spade.

In fact, most evergreens transplant easily because they have shallow root systems. Some other species, including oak and walnut trees, send down deep tap roots that take much longer to regenerate.

Because there is soil attached to teh roots, they do not dry out as quickly after being dug from the ground and they can be planted when i leaf in the growing season. However, this puts pressure on them as they have a greater requirement for water by this stage. Ideally, they should be ordered, dug and planted in the dormant season. As supply can be limited, it's a good idea to at least have these plants ordered adn booked before the new year.
  • Container-grown trees and shrubs: Container grown trees and shrubs range in size from smaller plants available in the garden centre to very mature specimens available form nurseries and suppliers. These plants have the advantage of being available all year round. If planted during the growing seasoon (April to October) extra care needs to be taken to keep them watered.
  • Container-grown perennials, grasses, ferns etc: A hundred years ago, before we had cheap plastic flowerpots, these plants would have been supplied either bare root or with a root ball attached - ie as divisions of larger existing plants.
  • in diameter and 12 to 20 ft. tall, depending on the species. The good news is that trees of these sizes have very good survival rates.

    The process

    Each planting requires the operator to first remove a soil plug from your yard, thereby creating a hole for the new tree (Photo 1). Typically, this plug is then hauled to the nursery and dropped into the hole left by a previous removal.

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    At the nursery, the operator opens the gate-like rear half of the spade assembly and centers the blades around the tree. With the gates closed, the operator engages the hydraulics that drive the pointed blades into the ground (Photo 2). The trunk is strapped to the machine to keep it from shifting as it's transported (Photo 3).

    Then, the operator uses a second set of hydraulics to lift the root plug from the ground, arching it over the back of the vehicle.

    Take the advice above if planting during tehvgrowing season: water and mulch well.
  • Bulbs: Bulbs are generally planted one or two seasons before they flower. Therefore, spring-flowering bulbs are planted in the autumn and early winter. Summer-flowering bulbs are planted in spring. There are a couple of exceptions to this rule: autumn-flowering crocusses (Colchicum) are planted in winter as they actually grow and send up leaves in the spring and then flower without leaves in late summer. Also, some bulbs can be planted 'in the green' (ie in leaf) as small plants in containers. This is frequently the case with Snowdrops (Galanthus) as some horticulturists argue that they take off better when planted first into pots and then into the ground.
  • Bamboos: Bamboos are generally cultivated in the following way. They are grown in the ground in specialist nurseries. Clumps are divided up and small sections are potted on into plastic pots.
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